This short and sweet lived journey through Germany was to be my catharsis from leidenschaft or passion. Instead, it became the journey of a bond with dear friends and with a country, both of which have left a lasting imprint on my soul. For a woman that does everything with passion, I was intent on seeing Germany, with the absence of passion, through the eyes of a local. And yet, much to my pleasure, I saw the country in the most passionate and ecstatic way possible. My most intimate moments in Germany were experienced in the small town of Rudesheim am Rhein. And these moments were made complete by combining the idiosyncrasies of a writer, a chef, and a dog.
Perhaps, unconsciously, it had been my love of raw onions that had brought me to Germany in the first place.
I had tottered into “zum Rebstock” in search of food. At first I had been drawn to the most impressively old—and, probably, most underhandedly touristic—of Bacharach’s wine taverns. Altes Haus (Old House), it was called, and though the kitchen had already closed for the afternoon, the waitress had brought a glass of the local Riesling to my table while I perused a book about the area.