Bergwerk Zollverein, Photo courtesy of Stefan Maria Rother

Berlin Hauptbahnhof (Central Station). The clock reads 10:27 am. My train is set to leave in three minutes, yet still I am disoriented in this maze of what seem like a thousand platforms. A sign tells me to head to the third floor, where the ICE (Inter City Express) is waiting for the last passengers to board. The door closes behind me. At last I can take my seat. A four-hour journey lies ahead of me before I can reach my destination – the birthplace of my father and the hometown of my grandparents, Essen, a city in the state of North-Rhine Westphalia. My last visit was three years ago and I’m anticipating new impressions. Especially now, during this time, in this year. In 2010,  UNESCO puts the spotlight on the ingeniously designed industrial machines and centuries-old culture in Essen’s former Zeche Zollverein (Coal Mine Zollverein), honoring Essen with the prestigious title of “Weltkulturerbe“ (World Heritage Site).

Kunstschacht Zollverein, Photo courtesy of Stefan Maria Rother

Once in Essen, I jump on local train #107 named “the Culture Route”. From afar I make out the impressive skyline view of the Zeche Zollverein, and at its halt, I depart. I’ve arrived. I notice the new feel of flair in the air. A warm entrance welcomes guests to admire the beautiful industrial site. I stop in awe in front of the tower with four large gears, admiring the magnificent view of this ingenious machine. Advancing on the grounds of the coal mine, the alluring lights of the museum and cafés catch my attention. One place stands out of the colorful bunch – a large building towards the far end of the industrial site. From outside, there is no indication of the building’s purpose, but as you come closer, you notice the old and extraordinary industrial machinery and large wooden sculptures before the building. Christa and Thomas Rother, my grandparents, curate the Kunstschacht (arts shaft) where they tell the region’s industrial history in a genuine and personal way.

The Kunstschacht from outside, Photo courtesy of Stefan Maria Rother

7000 m² in size, the former energy and steam supplier of all twelve shafts has not been in use since the late 1950s. My grandfather, an artist and sculptor, found the remains of the building in 1982 and began reconstructing it with his bare hands for its later purpose. It could not have been a more perfect studio, the 10m high windows flooding the place with light. Most of the machinery had been removed, only a few gigantic gears could still be found. Thomas Rother went on a mission and what he uncovered was impressive: more industrial machines, never before seen photos of the site’s workers, and inspiration for his own art… Today, he and his wife give tours of their museum, displaying the long-forgotten historical objects. In its own authentic way, the Kunstschacht gives a special insight into this industrial time. Combined with spectacular art, it allows for a special and very personal symbiosis of the past and the present. A hot spot on the industrial site.

While the entire coal mine belongs to the state of North-Rhine Westphalia, the Kunstschacht remains the last privately owned location on the Zeche Zollverein.

The World Heritage Site is a must for anyone coming to Germany, and I can only warmly recommend to anyone that you take a look for yourself.

(Photos courtesy of Stefan Maria Rother)